The Land
The Roero sits on the left bank of the Tanaro, directly across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco, but geologically it is a different country. Where the Langhe is built on marl, the Roero is built on sand: ancient marine sands mixed with limestone, silt, and clay, so loose and free-draining that the hills erode into the steep cliffs and ravines locals call the rocche. Giovanni Almondo's vineyards all lie in Montà, in the hills of the northern Roero, where the climate is mild and breezy with good diurnal swings. Sand changes Nebbiolo. It gives a lighter-framed, more perfumed wine with finer tannin than the same grape produces across the river, which is exactly why Roero red wine deserves far more attention than it gets.
The Wine
Giovanni Almondo Roero 2023 is 100% Nebbiolo from the family's own vineyards in Montà, bottled as Roero DOCG. The grapes ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel and stay on the skins for roughly ten days to two weeks, then age about 18 months in large, untoasted Slavonian oak casks, three times the appellation's minimum time in wood. Untoasted wood rounds the tannin without adding vanilla or spice. In past vintages this has shown violet, red cherry, and raspberry over a dusty, sandy-soil earthiness, with fresh acidity, soft tannin, and a long finish. The 2023 season opened with a dry early spring, turned cool and wet in May and June, and on July 6 a hailstorm hit parts of the Roero hard before a hot, stable late summer. Nebbiolo ripened on a normal schedule with strong phenolic balance.
The People
Giovanni Almondo ran a mixed farm in Montà: grapes, peaches, apples, strawberries, a few animals, with the wine sold in bulk. His son Domenico changed that. Trained in agricultural science, he began bottling the family's Nebbiolo and Arneis in the late 1970s and early 1980s, starting with a few hundred bottles, and by 1984 the family was shipping to the United States. Today Domenico works with his sons Stefano and Federico on about 15 hectares, all within Montà. The estate is best known for Arneis, but in recent years the family has returned to fully traditional Nebbiolo, with longer macerations and large barrels. They farm with few chemical treatments, and this Roero DOCG Nebbiolo is their case that the left bank deserves a seat at the same table as Barolo.
Food Pairing
Fine tannin makes this Roero easy to cook around. Agnolotti del plin in brown butter and sage is the local match; the acidity lifts the butter and the floral side of the wine mirrors the sage. Roast pork loin with fennel and garlic works because the soft tannin never overwhelms lean meat. A mushroom risotto finished with Parmigiano picks up the earthy, sandy-soil character, and seared salmon over braised lentils shows that Nebbiolo can sit beside fish when the tannin is this fine. This is the Nebbiolo for anyone who wants Barolo's perfume on a Tuesday-night budget.
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