The Land
Vougeot is a village nearly swallowed by one vineyard. The walled Clos de Vougeot covers about 50 hectares, and only about 16 hectares of village and premier cru land lie outside it. Les Petits Vougeots is one of just four Vougeot premiers crus, tucked north of the Clos's wall between the Clos and Chambolle-Musigny's Les Amoureuses, with Musigny close by upslope. Its name comes from the spring, la Petite Vouge, that gives the commune its name. The vines face east on deep, stony, well-drained limestone. That position is the whole story: the Clos's structure on one side, Amoureuses' perfume on the other, and a premier cru Pinot Noir from Burgundy that reads closer to Chambolle in fragrance and closer to Vougeot in grip.
The Wine
Hudelot-Noëllat Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots 2024 is 100 percent Pinot Noir. Like the rest of the range, the fruit is predominantly destemmed into cement tanks, macerated for two to three weeks, and raised for about 18 months in barrel in the domaine's cold cellar. The 2024 season tested every grower on this stretch of the Côte: rain roughly double the average through spring and summer, a cold, uneven flowering, and mildew that one Clos de Vougeot estate fought with 23 treatments. Côte de Nuits yields were often 12 to 15 hectoliters per hectare, and well-drained slopes like this one fared better than flat, waterlogged ground. In 2023 this wine showed fruit on the cusp of red and black with a velvety texture and good persistence. Expect red cherry, rose petal, and crushed stone in 2024, on a lighter, more transparent frame.
The People
Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat began in Vougeot in 1962, when Alain Hudelot started with parcels from his father. It now spans about 10 hectares and roughly 15 appellations across four villages: Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, and Nuits-Saint-Georges. The grand crus are Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Richebourg, and Clos de Vougeot. The premiers crus include Les Suchots, Les Beaumonts, and Les Malconsorts in Vosne, Les Charmes in Chambolle, Aux Murgers in Nuits, and Les Petits Vougeots. Alain's grandson, Charles van Canneyt, has run the estate since 2008, with lighter extraction and a sharper focus on site. Few domaines can show the Côte de Nuits as a continuous line from Chambolle to Nuits, and Les Petits Vougeots sits exactly where that line crosses the Clos.
Food Pairing
Treat it like a grand cru in miniature. Roast quail stuffed with grapes and thyme suits the red fruit and fine tannin without overwhelming the wine. A thick veal chop with a morel cream sauce works because the acidity cuts the cream while the earthy mushrooms meet the wine's mineral side. Wild mushroom tart with Gruyère and caramelized shallots plays to the same register. For something simpler, a pork rib roast with garlic and rosemary carries enough fat for the wine's grip to clean up. Pour it when friends who love Burgundy come over and you want to show them a site they have probably never tasted.
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