A.A. Badenhorst Grensloos Chenin Blanc 2023
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The Land
Grensloos means without boundary, and the name is literal. The Jakkalsfontein road running along the base of the Paardeberg is a watershed line, and it separates the Badenhorst family's two farms, Kalmoesfontein and Jakkalsfontein. This wine crosses it. Roughly 60 percent of the fruit comes from Kalmoesfontein, planted in decomposed granite with coarse yellow granite grit and a little clay, and 40 percent from Jakkalsfontein, where the soil is deep red gravel. Seven parcels feed it, planted between 1966 and 1978, all bush-trained, all dry-farmed, sitting between 180 and 330 meters with north, east, and south exposures. Two soil types and a spread of aspects is the whole argument for the wine: no single site in the Swartland gives you everything Chenin Blanc can do.
The Wine
One hundred percent Chenin Blanc, and 2023 is the first vintage. Grensloos consolidates cuvees the estate previously bottled separately by site, which makes it a blend by intention rather than by shortcut. Parcels are picked on different days according to terroir, then pressed together as whole bunches. Fermentation starts spontaneously in 1,200-liter old French oak foudres and small concrete tanks, and the wine rests on its primary lees for ten months before bottling at twelve. It carries 13.5 percent alcohol, 5.6 grams per liter total acidity, pH 3.33, and 2.3 grams residual sugar. Struck-match reduction opens onto pear, white peach, citrus, dry hay, and fynbos, with layered flavor and clean acid running long. The cool, late 2023 Cape vintage, roughly 15 percent down in volume, gave whites low pH and high natural acidity at ideal ripeness.
The People
Adi Badenhorst was one of the instigators of the 2010 Swartland Revolution and a founder of the Swartland Independent Producers association that grew out of it. Its charter is unusually prescriptive: indigenous yeast only, no acidification, no added tannin, no chemical fining, no reverse osmosis or watering, European oak only, and a ceiling of 25 percent new wood. The rules describe what was already happening in this cellar: old cement kuipe, basket presses, fermentations left to begin on their own. The farm uses organic and biodynamic practices without pursuing certification. The wine exists because of the 2021 purchase of Jakkalsfontein next door, taking the two farms to roughly 160 hectares of vineyard. Adi calls it the cream of the crop.
Food Pairing
Chenin Blanc from the Swartland with this much texture and this much acid can handle a real plate. Roast pork loin with fennel and apple is the first thing to try, since the wine's orchard fruit and the apple meet and the acidity cuts the fat. Grilled yellowtail or any firm white fish over coals, dressed with lemon and olive oil, picks up the smoky reduction. Thai green curry with chicken works because 2.3 grams of residual sugar takes the heat down without turning sweet. A washed-rind cheese like Taleggio is the sleeper pairing. Serve it at cellar temperature rather than fridge-cold, in a proper white wine glass, and give it an hour.
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The Coastal Region of South Africa encompasses the majority of the country's renowned wine districts, presenting a diverse array of soils and climates shaped by both the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. This region is home to several distinct areas each with its own unique identity. Stellenbosch, steeped in winemaking history and research, is known for its blends and is a key educational center for viticulture. Paarl, north of Stellenbosch, benefits from the Berg River and produces a wide variety of grapes. The Cape Town district, recently designated, includes wards like Constantia with its cool climate and historic Constantia valley, and the coastal wards of Durbanville and Philadelphia, and the more distant darling, all of which contribute to the region's diverse offerings. Finally, Swartland, traditionally a grain-producing area, has seen a rise in quality wines with its terroir-driven focus, particularly with producers in the Swartland Independent Producers group.
South Africa - Coastal Region
Chenin Blanc, celebrated for its high acidity and versatility, finds its most iconic expressions in the Loire Valley of France and the sun-drenched vineyards of South Africa. In the Loire Valley, it's the backbone of an array of styles, from vibrant, dry whites to lusciously sweet wines, showcasing the grape's remarkable ability to reflect terroir and respond to winemaking techniques. Meanwhile, South Africa has embraced Chenin Blanc, locally known as Steen, producing wines that range from fresh and fruity to complex and age-worthy, further cementing the grape's global appeal and adaptability.
