Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 2024
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The Land
Puligny-Montrachet has almost no cellars under it. The water table sits too close to the surface, so the village behind the world's most celebrated white wines ages them above ground or in borrowed cellars. It lies on the Cote de Beaune between Meursault and Chassagne, on a gentle east-facing slope of limestone and marl running roughly 230 to 250 meters in elevation. The limestone here is shallower and stonier than in Meursault, with less clay: Meursault gives breadth, Puligny gives tension and a wet-stone edge that shows up before the fruit does. Carillon's village bottling is assembled from several lieu-dits, each raised separately and blended only at the end.
The Wine
Chardonnay, hand-harvested, raised in barrel for roughly eighteen months, racked into tank before the following harvest and bottled after a full malolactic. The oak frames rather than flavors, so what arrives is orchard fruit over stone, not vanilla and toast. The 2024 vintage in Burgundy was brutal to farm and kind in the glass. Frost hit between April 18 and 23, rainfall ran about 55 percent above normal, and the wet forced a record number of mildew treatments. Irregular flowering brought coulure and millerandage. Yields came in under half a normal crop in many parcels. What survived ripened at classic weight, alcohols in the 12.5 to 13.5 percent range, acidity intact. White peach, lemon pith, hawthorn and crushed rock, then a long chalky finish that dries rather than softens.
The People
The Carillons have grown grapes in Puligny since at least 1520, when Jehan Carillon is recorded as a vintner, which makes this one of the longest continuous winegrowing lines in Burgundy. Jacques trained at the wine school in Beaune and joined his father Louis at Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils in 1980, when Louis was moving the family off bulk sales into estate bottling. In 2010 Jacques and his brother Francois divided the holdings, and Jacques and his wife Sylvia began working just over five hectares under their own name, mostly in Puligny with small parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin and Mercurey. The farming follows organic principles without certification: no herbicides, soils turned by plow and hand, short pruning and hard debudding. Rosenthal Wine Merchant has imported the family since 1980.
Food Pairing
A village Puligny of this cut wants fat and restraint in equal measure. Roast a chicken simply, salt, butter and a lemon in the cavity, and let the pan juices work against the wine's stone. Sole meuniere, floured and browned in butter with parsley and lemon, meets the acidity head-on. Sea scallops seared hard with brown butter and capers give the texture something to push against. Finish with a wedge of two-year Comte, the nuttiness picking up the barrel, the salt lengthening the finish. Given how little 2024 exists, this is a bottle to open for people who will notice, on a Tuesday, rather than save until the occasion outgrows it.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the CĂ´te d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the CĂ´te d'Or a true capital of terroir.
Burgundy - Cote d'Or
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
