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Domaine P&L Borgeot Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravieres Blanc 2024

$80.00

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The Land

Les Gravieres is the most respected premier cru in Santenay, and nearly everything ever written about it concerns red wine. The vineyard covers 23.8 hectares along the lower slope at the northern end of the commune, directly on the Chassagne-Montrachet boundary, and it is planted to both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, though the reds are what made its name. A white Gravieres is the uncommon bottling, and it is the reason to pay attention here. The name is literal. Gravieres means gravel pits, and the soil is gravelly limestone, stony and free-draining, which is exactly the ground Chardonnay wants. Domaine Borgeot's parcel sits mid-slope on the Chassagne side of the vineyard, the end that shares its geology with far more famous neighbors.

The Wine

Chardonnay, whole-bunch pressed, the juice settled and racked off its sediment before fermentation in French oak barrels. Borgeot's premier crus are raised around twelve months in French oak, roughly a third of it new, enough to build texture without burying the gravel underneath. 2024 was among the hardest growing seasons the Cote de Beaune has faced in decades: rainfall more than half again the norm, sunshine hours roughly 10% below average, and downy mildew that struck the bunches before it ever appeared on the leaves. Santenay came through better than most of its neighbors. The April frost that damaged the Hautes-Cotes and Maranges barely touched it, and Chardonnay yields here held adequate while other communes collapsed. Growers between Meursault and Maranges picked inside a narrow dry window opening around September 12 and closed before the rain returned on the 25th. The wine is stony and bright: ripe lemon, white flowers, almond, a creamy center from the barrel, and a mineral, bracing finish.

The People

Domaine Borgeot works out of Remigny, a village just across the departement line in Saone-et-Loire, minutes from Santenay. The estate was founded in 1903 and is run by brothers Pascal and Laurent Borgeot, the fourth generation of the family to hold it. They farm roughly 24 hectares spread across Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Puligny-Montrachet, working by lutte raisonnee rather than under organic certification. Their oak regime tracks the hierarchy precisely: 15% new for the Bourgogne, 20 to 25% for the village wines, 33% for the premier crus. Fermentation is split between temperature-controlled stainless steel and barrel depending on the wine, a deliberate hedge that keeps primary fruit intact while still building complexity.

Food Pairing

Roast chicken with tarragon and creme fraiche gives the wine's oak something to work with while the acidity handles the sauce. Sole or halibut in beurre blanc is the traditional answer and the right one. Crab cakes with a sharp remoulade play against the gravelly minerality, and the wine's citrus does the job lemon would. A wedge of aged Gruyere works after dinner. This is a premier cru white Burgundy that does not cost what its neighbors up the road do, which makes it the bottle to bring when you want to impress someone quietly.

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Burgundy, in eastern France, encompasses several subregions, but it is the Côte d'Or that is home to many of the world's most expensive and revered wines. The region, primarily a single east-facing slope, has mixed limestone soils that vary dramatically from village to village and even vineyard to vineyard. White wines, crafted from Chardonnay, range from rich and opulent to lean and intensely mineral, while Pinot Noir produces silky, perfumed red wines of exceptional finesse and complexity. Centuries of winemaking tradition have resulted in every plot being meticulously recognized and scrutinized, making the Côte d'Or a true capital of terroir.

Burgundy - Cote d'Or


Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.

Chardonnay