The Land
Elio Altare's cellar sits in Annunziata, in La Morra, but his classic Barolo is not a single-village wine. The estate lists Nebbiolo from La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba, and Barolo itself in the blend, and that spread is the point. La Morra's sandier marls bring perfume and red fruit, Serralunga's compact limestone and sandstone add grip, and Castiglione Falletto, in the middle of the zone, lends depth and spice. The parcels face mostly south and southeast, which mattered in 2022, when the hottest, sandiest sites suffered most. Blending across the appellation spreads that risk and builds a Barolo red wine that reads as a portrait of the whole zone rather than one hillside.
The Wine
Elio Altare Barolo 2022 is 100% Nebbiolo, macerated on the skins for only four to five days in temperature-controlled rotary fermenters, then aged 24 months in used French barriques. That short maceration is the house signature: it pulls color and fruit without the hard tannin of long traditional soaks, and the seasoned wood rounds the wine without stamping it with vanilla. Fermentation relies on the estate's own indigenous yeasts, and the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. Expect ripe cherry, raspberry, and rose petal, then licorice, blood orange, leather, and a touch of nutmeg, with fine, soft tannin and a violet-scented finish. The 2022 season ran from a dry winter with little alpine snow into a progressively hotter, drought-stricken summer. Berries were small and thick-skinned, yields across Barolo fell 20 to 45 percent, and picking started early, in mid-September.
The People
The Altare family came from Dogliani and bought this farm in 1948, when peach, hazelnut, and apple trees still grew among the vines. In January 1976 he traveled to Burgundy with other young growers and came home convinced Barolo needed lower yields, cleaner fruit, and a lighter hand. He cut down the orchard and took a chainsaw to the old botti, a break so sharp that his father disinherited him. In June 2016 ownership passed to his daughter Silvia, who had worked full-time in the business since the early 2000s. The farming has not changed: only copper sulfate and sulfur in the vineyard, and organic cow manure for fertilizer. Silvia called 2022 an annus horribilis; the classic Barolo came through it with the house lift intact.
Food Pairing
This Barolo has the tannin for a serious dinner but the soft edges to open young. Braise beef short ribs in red wine with carrots and rosemary and serve them over soft polenta; the fine grip and acidity cut straight through the richness. Tajarin with sage and brown butter picks up the rose and earth. Roast duck legs with a cherry and balsamic reduction meet the ripe red fruit head-on, and a wedge of Castelmagno or aged Toma brings out the licorice. Decant it an hour ahead. This is the Barolo for a Saturday when you want the real thing without waiting ten years.
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