Jade Gross Jabalina Rosé 2025
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The Land
Rioja rosado spent decades as an afterthought, a byproduct of bleeding tanks to concentrate red wine. Jabalina is built the other way around, from two deliberately chosen sites with opposite soils. The Tempranillo comes from La Cantera in Labastida, Rioja Alavesa: 39-year-old bush vines on clay and limestone at 600 to 650 meters, high enough that harvest runs late and acidity survives. The Garnacha grows on sand in San Vicente de la Sonsierra, across the Ebro in Rioja Alta, planted 34 years ago. Limestone gives the wine its grip and length; sand gives it perfume and lift. The two soils are the whole design.
The Wine
Fifty percent Tempranillo, 50 percent Garnacha, the first vintage of Jabalina made at that split after three years of a Tempranillo-dominant blend. Hand-harvested on September 14, 2025 and pressed as whole bunches, so the juice comes off pale and low in phenolics. It fermented in a 500-liter French oak barrel and stayed there six months on its lees. That is a white-wine protocol applied to pink, and it shows: this is a rosé with texture, not a poolside pour. Wild strawberry, blood orange peel, white pepper and crushed stone, a creamy mid-palate from the lees, and a dry saline finish. 14 percent alcohol. 1,070 individually numbered bottles.
The People
Jade Gross grew up in Hong Kong and lived in New York and London before moving, in 2019, to San Vicente de la Sonsierra, population roughly one thousand. She has been candid about the cost of that trade: a Chinese American woman with no family in wine and no local surname, she spent her first years being watched rather than welcomed. Her account of how it turned is unglamorous. She started showing up at the village bar at six in the morning for a café con leche alongside the older men who farm there, then coming back at the end of the day covered in mud, and about two years in they began nodding to her across the room. The vineyards followed the same slow arithmetic: a bush-vine parcel near Labastida bought in 2020, a sandy Garnacha plot in the San Andrés area of San Vicente added in 2024, and in 2023, after years of borrowing space in friends' cellars, a plain working winery of her own on the village industrial estate.
Food Pairing
Barrel fermentation and six months of lees give this enough body to sit down at the table. Grilled head-on prawns with garlic, pimentón and a hard squeeze of lemon, where the salinity meets the char. A seafood paella with plenty of socarrat, since the acidity keeps cutting through the saffron rice. Jamón ibérico and boquerones, straight from the plate. Or roast chicken thighs with olives and preserved lemon. Buy two: one for now, one to see what it does in a year.
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Rioja, Spain's iconic wine region nestled in the north-central part of the country, is defined by its diverse landscape and Tempranillo-based wines. The region is divided into three distinct subregions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja), each contributing unique characteristics based on altitude, soil composition, and climate. While Tempranillo dominates, other important grapes include Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo for reds, and Viura (Macabeo) for whites. Rioja's modern winemaking style was significantly shaped by the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, which devastated vineyards across Europe. As French winemakers sought refuge and new sources of wine, they brought their techniques to Rioja, introducing oak aging and influencing the development of the region's distinctive, internationally recognized style.
Spain - Rioja
Tempranillo, Spain's most celebrated red grape, takes its name from the Spanish word "temprano," meaning "early," a reference to the variety's tendency to ripen earlier than other Spanish grapes. This versatility allows it to thrive across a range of climates and soil types. Though primarily associated with Spain, where it forms the backbone of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and other prominent regions, Tempranillo also has a significant presence in Portugal. Here, it's known under various synonyms, including Tinta Roriz, Aragonez, and Tinto Fino, playing a crucial role in the production of both red and rosé wines. Its ability to produce wines with moderate acidity, balanced tannins, and complex flavors of red fruit, leather, and tobacco make it a favorite among winemakers and wine drinkers alike.
