The Land
Montenidoli is a wooded hill above San Gimignano, roughly 200 hectares of oak, holm oak, flowering ash, and pine with vineyards and olive groves set into clearings. Its two halves were made by different ages of the earth. During the Quaternary, the Ligurian Sea pushed into these valleys and left the lower slopes white, sandy, calcareous, and full of shell fragments; higher up, red soil sits over cavernous Triassic rock. Il Garrulo comes from vines between 250 and 350 meters on clay and limestone, inside the San Gimignano zone of the Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG. The estate has no close neighbors, so nobody else's spray drifts onto the vines. Lower, warmer sites and calcareous clay suit a red built for freshness and immediate pleasure.
The Wine
Il Garrulo is Chianti made the old way, with white grapes in the blend. Sangiovese and Canaiolo are joined by Trebbiano and Malvasia, the four traditional Chianti varieties, following a formula most of the region abandoned decades ago. The grapes ferment together and the wine is raised in glass-lined concrete vats, then finished in bottle, with no wood at any stage. Concrete keeps the fruit in front and the tannin light, and the white grapes add lift and perfume. Expect brilliant ruby color, red cherry, wild strawberry, and violet, a lively, juicy middle, and a crisp, mouthwatering finish. The 2023 season in Tuscany brought a wet late spring, and downy and powdery mildew forced early, costly treatments; Coldiretti estimated regional output down about 20 percent.
The People
Elisabetta Fagiuoli was born in Verona and grew up inside the Valpolicella winemaking tradition. In 1965, with help from her grandmother, she bought this abandoned hillside, which had no road, no water, and no electricity and had largely gone back to forest. She made her first commercial wine in 1971, which Luigi Veronelli wrote about, and for more than a decade made only red; the marine fossils in the lower vineyards later convinced her white wine belonged here too. With her late partner Sergio Muratori, a psychologist and educator, she took in children from hard circumstances, and the Fondazione Sergio il Patriarca carries that work on at the estate. She credits Giulio Gambelli among her mentors. Montenidoli is certified organic by ICEA, and she calls organic farming a question of culture, not fashion.
Food Pairing
Montenidoli calls Il Garrulo the tomato wine, and it earns the name. Give it a chill, around 58°F. Spaghetti with a quick sauce of San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, and torn basil works because the wine's acidity matches the tomato's and the low tannin never turns metallic. Pappa al pomodoro with plenty of olive oil and stale Tuscan bread leans on the wine's red fruit. Sausages and peppers off the grill let the juicy middle cool the char. Keep a bottle in the fridge door for the nights dinner is pasta and a can of good tomatoes.
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