Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru Beauregards 2024 1.5L
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The Land
Beauregards is the premier cru almost nobody orders, and the reason is geography rather than quality: it sits at the far southwestern edge of the appellation, above Courgis, further from the town of Chablis than any other cru. The climat is a flag-bearer taking in Côte de Cuissy, roughly 20 hectares between them. The slope faces south and gets direct sun, but altitude and the enclosed valley keep the site cold, so Beauregards ripens late and holds acidity the crus near the river cannot. Soils are shallow, stony clay over limestone marl, free-draining enough the vines never sit wet. The result is a premier cru with more cut and less flesh than Vaillons or Montmains, and one that rewards cellaring.
The Wine
Chardonnay from the Beauregards slope above Courgis, hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts. As with all the premier and grand crus here, roughly 30 percent goes into barrel, older wood steamed rather than charred so the oak adds no toast, the balance in stainless steel. It then sits on fine lees close to two years, which is where the domaine's texture comes from: creamy weight around a hard mineral core. Grapefruit zest, white flowers, crushed stone and a salty, almost bitter finish. The 2024 season was among the worst in living memory in Chablis: April frost, a May 1 hailstorm, a flowering stretched past three weeks, and mildew that forced organic growers to spray 20 to 25 times. Courgis was largely spared the hail, which is part of why this cru exists at all in 2024. Harvest ran roughly September 16 to 20. The magnum will hold this wine's nerve for a decade or more.
The People
The farming at Moreau-Naudet is the expensive kind. No herbicides, no insecticides, no synthetic fungicides, soils plowed four to five times a year and fed only with organic amendments. Canopy work is equally labor-intensive: short pruning, hand disbudding, green harvesting to keep the crop small. In a year like 2024 that discipline nearly defeats itself: organic growers had the least chemical defense against mildew and took the region's steepest losses. Virginie Moreau kept to it anyway. The domaine farms about 25 hectares and bottles roughly 20; young-vine parcels around Courgis that miss the standard are sold off in bulk rather than blended in. That decision explains the wines.
Food Pairing
The cold-site acidity here wants richness to work against. Roast a chicken with tarragon and crème fraîche and serve it with the pan juices. Make a gratin of leeks and Gruyère, browned hard on top, and let the wine's salinity cut the dairy. Scallops seared in brown butter with a squeeze of lemon meet the citrus head-on. Or go simple with a plate of jambon persillé and cornichons. A magnum of premier cru Chablis is a holiday-table bottle, the one you open when the food is good and the conversation will run past midnight.
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Chablis, a village and region in northern Burgundy, is all about Chardonnay, making arguably the best unoaked versions in the world. The wines here are defined by a crisp acidity and a strong mineral backbone. The area's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soil, packed with marine fossils, gives the wines a distinctive flinty edge. One slope overlooking the village holds the seven Grand Cru vineyards, while Premier Cru sites are scattered along both sides of the Sereine River, which cuts the region in half. Chablis is the ultimate destination for highly mineral white wines.
Burgundy - Chablis
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
