Moreau-Naudet Chablis 2024 1.5L
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The Land
Most people picture Chablis as the slopes immediately around the town, but the appellation runs several miles southwest into the plateau villages of Préhy and Courgis, and that is where Moreau-Naudet's village fruit grows. This is higher, cooler, later-ripening ground than the grand cru hill. Kimmeridgian marl sits below caps of harder Portlandian limestone, gray-white clay packed with the fossilized oyster shells growers turn up with every pass of the plow. Cold air settles in these side valleys, picking runs days behind the town, and the wines come out leaner and more mineral-driven than village Chablis off the warmer ground near the Serein. Unglamorous land, and it produces a serious Chardonnay from Chablis.
The Wine
All Chardonnay, hand-harvested in Préhy and Courgis, fermented with indigenous yeasts and raised entirely in stainless steel for 14 to 20 months on fine lees, with no oak at any stage. The long lees contact is the point: it builds a chalky, mouth-filling texture most village Chablis never gets, while the steel keeps the citrus unblurred. Lemon pith, green apple skin, crushed oyster shell, wet chalk, a saline attack and a dry mineral finish. 2024 was punishing here. Frost ran April 18 to 25, hail hit on May 1, flowering dragged past three weeks in the rain, and mildew was constant. Most growers lost 60 to 90 percent of the crop. Courgis and Préhy were among the sectors that largely escaped the May hail. The surviving wines are light-bodied, low in alcohol and racy, and in magnum that freshness has a much longer runway.
The People
The domaine name dates to 1950 and the marriage of Marie Naudet and René Moreau, though the family grew grapes here long before that. Stéphane Moreau took over from his father Roger in 1993 and spent two decades expanding the estate from roughly 7 hectares to more than 20, building a new cellar on the Vaillons side of town and moving the farming to organic practice. He died in September 2016 at 47, weeks before harvest. His widow Virginie Moreau runs the domaine now, alongside the assistant winemaker Stéphane trained and, more recently, their daughter. The house style holds: Chablis built for texture rather than shock-value acidity.
Food Pairing
Opening a magnum means you have committed to feeding people. Start with raw oysters and nothing but lemon, since the wine's salinity and the brine in the shell do the same job. Move to a whole branzino roasted with fennel, lemon and good olive oil, the acidity cutting the oil. A warm goat cheese and leek tart plays straight to the chalky texture the lees aging built. Finish with salt cod fritters and aioli. This is the bottle for a long table in the backyard in September, when a single 750 would have run dry an hour ago.
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Weather shipping advisory: Orders placed during times of extreme heat or extreme cold will be held for no charge until more favorable weather returns.
Chablis, a village and region in northern Burgundy, is all about Chardonnay, making arguably the best unoaked versions in the world. The wines here are defined by a crisp acidity and a strong mineral backbone. The area's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soil, packed with marine fossils, gives the wines a distinctive flinty edge. One slope overlooking the village holds the seven Grand Cru vineyards, while Premier Cru sites are scattered along both sides of the Sereine River, which cuts the region in half. Chablis is the ultimate destination for highly mineral white wines.
Burgundy - Chablis
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
