The Land
Most New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc comes from Marlborough. Mt Beautiful farms well away from that crowd, at Spotswood, 9 kilometers north of Cheviot on the northern fringe of North Canterbury, where founder David Teece wanted to plant somewhere no one had grown grapes before. The vineyard sits between 25 and 90 meters, bordered by the Waiau River to the north and sheltered from easterly ocean winds by the 424-meter peak that gives the estate its name. A lake splits the site, and the lower, cooler northern blocks carry the Sauvignon Blanc. Soils are mostly silt loam and light clay over mudstone and alluvial gravel, part of 23 soil types mapped on the property. Warm days and cool nights keep the acidity sharp.
The Wine
Mt Beautiful Sauvignon Blanc Black Label 2022 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a mix of UCD 1 and mass-selection vines, with about a quarter of the plantings on Bordeaux clones 316 and 317. The estate credits those Bordeaux clones with pulling the wine away from cut grass and toward riper tropical fruit. Most of it fermented cool and slow in tank, while about 5% fermented in old barrels and stayed two months on lees; that small barrel portion builds a creamy mid-palate. Expect passion fruit and tropical fruit, cut grass, tomato leaf, and blackcurrant, then a dry, long finish at 13% alcohol. The 2022 season in North Canterbury brought a mix of rain and limited sunshine, yet the region's harvest came in 34% larger than 2021's.
The People
David Teece's family arrived in New Zealand from Shropshire in the 1860s and farmed there for generations. Teece studied economics and geology at the University of Canterbury, then built a career as a business professor at UC Berkeley's Haas School. His friend Ron Sutherland, a geologist and vineyard consultant, spent about two years searching the northern South Island for a site. The first vines went in during 2004, the first harvest came in 2007, and an on-site winery followed for the 2015 vintage. A working sheep and beef farm still surrounds the certified-sustainable vineyard. Alastair Maling MW, formerly of Villa Maria, has guided the winemaking since late 2021. The handwriting on the label comes from wartime letters Teece's father, Allan, sent home.
Food Pairing
Shuck a dozen raw oysters and dress them with a shallot and lime mignonette; the wine's citrus-sharp acidity matches the brine. Grill shrimp with garlic, chili, and cilantro and serve them over rice noodles, letting the tropical fruit cool the heat. A goat cheese and asparagus tart works because the herbal, tomato-leaf edge mirrors the green vegetable while the acidity cuts the tangy cheese. Thai green papaya salad with lime, fish sauce, and crushed peanuts is the wild card, and the wine's crispness keeps up with its sour-sweet punch. This is the bottle to keep in the fridge door for warm nights when dinner comes together in twenty minutes.
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