The Land
Greece's most structured red wine does not come from a sun-baked island. It comes from Naoussa, in the cool, continental north of Macedonia, where vineyards climb the eastern foothills of Mount Vermio and a normal winter brings snow. Only Xinomavro may carry the Naoussa name. Oenos Mittas farms in Paliokalias, a site on the Vermio slopes that Greek Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis has called Naoussa's grand cru. Cold air off the mountain and a long, slow autumn give Xinomavro from Naoussa the acidity and firm tannin that draw comparisons to Nebbiolo, and this bottling leans toward the mountain-air freshness of Alto Piemonte rather than the weight of the Langhe.
The Wine
Oenos Mittas Naoussa Xinomavro 2023 is 100% Xinomavro from the family's Paliokalias vines, fermented with whole clusters and handled with a light touch in the cellar. The stems add lift and a fine-grained frame rather than bulk. Expect raspberry, sour cherry, dried rose petal, tomato leaf and dried oregano, with the faintly balsamic edge typical of the grape. The body is medium, the acidity bracing, and the tannin fine and persistent, running into a mineral, lifted finish. A short decant helps it open. The 2023 season in Naoussa started cold after a dry winter with little snow, turned wet in May and June, then brought two July heatwaves and a dry August. A mild September, with 13 to 15 degrees Celsius between day and night, rescued the vintage; Xinomavro picking began September 26, at least a week late, and the fruit came in with deep color and ripe tannin.
The People
The Mittas family is one of the oldest in Naoussa, yet for generations its grapes went into other people's bottles. Yiannis Mittas, trained in agricultural technology, worked alongside his cousin Kostis Dalamaras, the sixth-generation grower whose Domaine Dalamara made the Paliokalias name famous, and the family's organically farmed Xinomavro was sold to Dalamara before Yiannis began bottling it himself. He set up a makeshift winery in the family's old bicycle shop and was 28 when the first Oenos Mittas wine was released. The style follows: a grower's wine from one great site, kept simple in the cellar. Oenos Mittas is one of the most compelling new names in Naoussa, and a rare chance to taste Paliokalias fruit outside the Dalamara label.
Food Pairing
Xinomavro's acidity and tannin want fat, tomato and char. Braise lamb shoulder with tomatoes, cinnamon and oregano until it falls apart and serve it over orzo; the tannin firms up against the rich meat while the tomato-leaf side of the wine meets the sauce. A proper moussaka with a thick béchamel works for the same reason, the acidity cutting straight through the custard. Grill octopus until it chars, then dress it with red wine vinegar, oregano and olive oil, and the wine's dried-herb edge does the rest. On a weeknight, grill loukaniko sausages with roasted eggplant and aged graviera. This is the bottle for the friend who swears by Barolo and has never opened a Greek red.
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