The Land
Ria's Wines farms on Seneca Lake, but its Aurora Riesling comes from the next lake east. The fruit grows at Lake Road Vineyards on the eastern side of Cayuga Lake, the second largest of the Finger Lakes at about 38 miles long and up to 431 feet deep. That volume of water stays unfrozen through winter, softening cold snaps and buffering frost in spring and fall. The Cayuga Lake AVA averages a 165- to 170-day growing season, against roughly 145 days for much of the region, with deep, well-drained soils formed in high-lime glacial till over shale bedrock. Those conditions give Riesling from the Finger Lakes a little more time to ripen on the vine, which shows in this wine as riper stone fruit layered over the region's signature acidity.
The Wine
Despite the name, Aurora is not the Aurore hybrid grape. Ria's Riesling Aurora 2025 is 100% Riesling, a Finger Lakes white wine made in a dry style, with about 4 grams per liter of residual sugar and 13 percent alcohol. The house approach for whites is a touch of skin contact and long, gentle press cycles, then spontaneous fermentation, minimal new oak, and no fining. Skin contact and slow pressing pull extra texture from the fruit, which is why the mid-palate here carries more weight than its acidity would suggest. Expect ripe peach, nectarine, and wet stone on the nose, then tangerine and orange peel, bright acidity against a supple middle, and a ripe, lingering finish.
The People
Mike Penn fell for Riesling while working at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, after studying winemaking and viticulture in California and working harvests in France, New Zealand, Washington, and California. He met Ria D'Aversa in California; she holds degrees in botany and viticulture and has spent 15 years managing vineyards in California and New York. The couple moved their family to the Finger Lakes, founded Ria's Wines in 2022, and in 2024 bought the former Bagley's Poplar Ridge estate in Hector, whose vines Dave Bagley planted in 1980. Aurora reflects the other half of their model: partnering with growers they trust. Ryan Fessenden of Lake Road Vineyards, whom they call a friend and fellow grower, supplies the fruit, and Mike's cellar lets that Cayuga site speak.
Food Pairing
Dry, bright, and textured, this Riesling belongs with lake-country cooking. Pan-fried trout with lemon brown butter and toasted almonds lets the acidity slice through the butter while the citrus peel echoes the lemon. Thick pork chops seared with apples, sage, and a splash of cider vinegar match the wine's stone fruit and lift. Shrimp summer rolls with a peanut-lime dipping sauce use the wine's freshness against the rich sauce. A fresh goat cheese with local honey rounds it out. Keep a bottle in the fridge door for the nights when dinner is whatever the farmers market had.
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