Passopisciaro Contrada PC Bianco 2022
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The Land
Chardonnay is not allowed under the Etna DOC, which is why one of the most sought-after whites from the volcano carries a humble Terre Siciliane IGT label. "PC" stands for Contrada Passochianche, a single steep terrace on Etna's north slope at roughly 870 to 950 meters, among the highest Chardonnay plantings anywhere in Italy. The soil is black volcanic sand of very fine texture, loose and free-draining, with no limestone in sight. At this altitude the growing season is long and cool, nights drop sharply, and harvest comes late. That combination is why this Chardonnay from Sicily tastes more like a mountain wine than a Mediterranean one: taut acidity and a smoky, stony grip under the fruit.
The Wine
Passopisciaro Contrada PC Bianco 2022 is 100% Chardonnay, first bottled as its own wine from the 2018 vintage. The grapes macerate on their skins for about 36 hours before fermenting in large, neutral 20-hectoliter oak casks, where malolactic happens naturally. The wine then spends about 17 months in large oak, at least six of them on fine lees, is bottled unfiltered, and rests roughly another year before release. Skin contact and long lees time build a full, layered texture, while the big neutral wood keeps it free of obvious oak. Expect baked apple, quince, lime, honeysuckle, and white pepper, a broad but firm palate of hazelnut, kumquat, and crushed basalt, and a long, stony finish at 13.5% alcohol. On the north slope, 2022 brought June drought and heat, then late-August rain and a dry September that ripened whites early and in excellent health.
The People
Andrea Franchetti was an unlikely Etna pioneer. Raised in Rome by an Italian father and an American mother, he opened restaurants as a teenager and imported Italian wine in New York in the 1980s. In 1991 he planted Bordeaux varieties on the Tuscany–Lazio border and built Tenuta di Trinoro into a cult estate. In 2000 he came to Etna's north slope, set up in an old farm building, and restored abandoned terraces of Nerello Mascalese, planting Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and Cesanese where Nerello was not. He founded the Le Contrade dell'Etna festival in 2007 and began bottling single contrade in 2008, helping define the cru map the whole volcano now uses. Franchetti died in December 2021 at age 72, and his children carry Passopisciaro forward.
Food Pairing
This has the weight for dishes you would normally reserve for white Burgundy. Roast chicken with brown butter, thyme, and crisp potatoes meets the wine's texture head-on while the acidity keeps it lively. Lobster or langoustines grilled with lemon butter play the stony finish against sweet shellfish. Saffron risotto with a little bone marrow matches the nutty, layered middle. For something simpler, try a wedge of aged Comté with toasted hazelnuts. Pour it slightly cool, not cold, and serve it to the friend who swears off Chardonnay.
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Sicily, Italy’s largest island, blends ancient wine traditions with a fresh wave of modern creativity. Its star red grape, Nero d’Avola, thrives in the island’s warm, sun-soaked climate, producing intensely flavored wines with dark fruit and a hint of savory spice. Along the western coast lies the historic heartland of Marsala, a fortified wine prized for both sweet and dry styles. Rising above the island’s varied landscapes is Mount Etna, an active volcano whose mineral-rich soils and cooler elevations result in elegantly structured reds and nuanced whites. From coast to crater, Sicily’s wine culture is as diverse and vibrant as the region itself.
Italy - Sicily
Chardonnay, one of the world's most versatile and beloved white grape varieties, showcases a remarkable spectrum of styles, from the lean, mineral-driven expressions of Chablis in France to the rich, buttery, and oak-aged versions from California's Napa Valley. Its adaptability extends to cooler climates such as Burgundy, where it achieves elegance and complexity, and to regions like Australia's Yarra Valley, known for producing vibrant and fruit-forward renditions. This grape's ability to reflect its terroir, coupled with winemaking techniques, results in a wide array of profiles, including unoaked, crisp varieties with apple and citrus notes, to full-bodied wines with tropical fruit flavors and creamy textures.
